Route: Viel del Pan
Area: Alta Badia, Dolomites, Italy
Date of walk: 21st June 2018
Walkers: Andrew and Gilly
Distance: 4.7 miles
Ascent: 1,300 feet
Weather: Mixed cloud and sun
Today would be the last day of our walking holiday in the Dolomites. We opened the curtains to yet another sunny day – the 6th in succession – and could hardly believe our luck. However, rain was forecast to arrive in the afternoon and so we lost no time in setting off to the Passo Pordoi, a high level mountain pass at 7,400 feet above sea level, where our walk would start
Our route was the Viel del Pan, an age-old trade route running along the spine of the Padon chain and used in the Middle Ages by grain smugglers to avoid heavy taxes imposed by the Venetian Republic. After parking the car at the top of the pass we began an easy ascent which took us past a small chapel. The path took us over the ridge and for the remainder of the walk we’d be walking at a height of nearly 8,000 feet, following a path below the crest of the ridge
As we set off along the Viel del Pan proper, there were awe inspiring views of the snow clad Marmolada ‘The Queen of the Dolomites’, which is the highest mountain in the region at nearly 11,000 feet. The track was wide at first, as it had to be in order to accommodate a mini tractor bringing supplies to the Rifugio Viel del Pan, which lies at the halfway point of the walk. Refreshments are available here but we didn’t pause and carried on along the path, which narrowed considerably beyond the refuge
The thrilling path contoured around the mountainside at high level, with more wonderful views of The Marmolada as we progressed. There were huge drops into the valley below, but never quite so steep as to induce vertigo and the path was perfectly safe throughout. Navigation wasn’t an issue, save for a fork in the path towards the end where the waymarking wasn’t clear. We turned left here and after about 15 minutes, and a last short climb, we arrived at our destination – the futuristic station of Porta Vescovo at 8,150 feet, which looks like a set from a James Bond film
From here we took the cable car down to the village of Arabba and caught the 472 bus back to the start at the top of the Passo Pordoi. It had been a fantastic walk and a great climax to our holiday in the Dolomites
Click on the icon below for the route map
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View back down the valley from the car park at the head of Passo Pordoi
Looking back to the Sella group of mountains as we start the initial ascent
We pass by a small chapel
Looking back to the Sella group - we thought that the couple behind us were fellow walkers...
...but when we turned round again they were starting the ascent of Sasso Becce
Looking back towards the Sella group
After a short climb we arrive at the Viel del Pan proper and the first of many views of magnificent Marmolada 'Queen of the Dolomites' - we turn left at the junction
We follow a wide track towards Rifugio Fredarola
Looking down into the valley to our right, a couple of chalets or huts set in an amazing position
Marmolada dominates the scene on our right...
Looking back to the far end of the Padon ridge
The path contours around the mountain side...
Another view back to the end of the ridge
Marmolada again, the highest peak in the Dolomites
The pointed peak of Colac
Globe flowers and buttercups
Looking back to a rock outcrop
Globe flowers
Alpine Pasque Flowers
We arrive at Rifugio Viel del Pan, marking the halfway point of the walk, with a view along Lago di Fedaia
Beyond the refuge the path narrows, and continues to traverse the mountain side
Lago di Fedaia
Looking back to Marmolada and Colac beyond
Lago di Fedaia again
Just around the corner the path crosses the head of a steep gully, causing my heart to beat a little faster...
...looking back
A view down into the valley below Marmolada
Snowfields on Marmolada
Further along Viel del Pan
Marmolada again
We turn left before the rocky peak ahead to climb up to Porta Vescovo at the top of the Padon ridge
Looking back along the path
We head for the slightly surreal cable car station at Porta Vescovo at 8,130 feet...
View from the seating area, looking towards the Sella group - we will take the cable car from here down into Arabba, then catch the bus back up Passo Pordoi
Before the cable car arrives there's just enough time for a beer to celebrate the end of a fabulous walking holiday in the Dolomites - saluti!
