Route: Portnahaven and Port Wemyss
Area: The Rhinns of Islay
Date of walk: 23rd March 2022
Walkers: Andrew and Gilly
Distance: 1.7 miles
Ascent: 150 feet
Weather: sunny but hazy
The twin coastal villages of Portnahaven and Port Wemyss (pronounced ‘weems’) are unspoilt and very picturesque, being set in an idyllic position overlooking the sea. Both villages were built to house tenants who were cleared from the interior during the 1830’s. They share one church, with separate doors for the people of Portnahaven and Port Wemyss. In earlier times, when the people of both villages regarded each other as rivals it sometimes gave rise to problems, especially with weddings when the Portnahaven people didn’t want to sit in the Port Wemyss side of the church and vice versa
We walked along the road for a short distance. Looking across, there were good views out to sea, including the island of Orsay and Rhinns of Islay Lighthouse, built by Robert Stevenson in 1825. This is one of over 200 that are located around Scotland’s wild coastline. We left the road to turn onto the Fisherman’s Path, or Ràthas nan Lasgairean, a delighful short path which is maintained by the locals. The path starts on the seaside at one side of the village and ends on the other side. It’s possible to spot grey seals, otters and bottlenose dolphins from here
We rejoined the road and walked out of Port Wemyss, turning left to approach Portnahaven, passing by the shared village church along the way. We followed the road around the sheltered harbour, a lovely section of the walk, and along the way we had good sightings of several grey seals on the rocks below the whitewashed cottages. A short climb brought us back up to the parking space and the end of a short but very sweet walk
Click on the icon below for the route map (subscribers to OS Maps can view detailed maps of the route, visualise it in aerial 3D, and download the GPX file. Non-subscribers will see a base map).
Scroll down – or click on any photo to enlarge it and you can then view as a slideshow
The start of the walk is from a parking area between Port Wemyss and Portnahaven
We walk back along the road to Port Wemyss and turn off to join the Fisherman's Path, or Ràthas nan Lasgairean
Looking across to the Rhinns of Islay Lighthouse...
We arrive at the road into Port Wemyss
We head away from the village along the quiet road
After a short road section, we arrive above Portnahaven - the two villages are very close to each other
We pass by the shared church of Portnahaven and Port Wemyss
We follow the road down to the sea
The Rhinns of Islay Lighthouse again
The sandy bay and harbour at the heart of Portnahaven
We follow the narrow road around the harbourside
Looking back
The road rises above the harbour, giving lovely views over it...
A couple of seals lazing on the rocks by the sea
Views back to Portnahaven as we head back to the start...
Back to the start of a delightful short walk
