Route: Loweswater and Holme Wood
Area : Western Lake District
Date of walk: 11th December 2019
Walkers: Andrew and Gilly
Distance: 5.7 miles
Ascent: 1,000 feet
Weather: Mostly cloudy, a couple of showers and some patches of sun
A combination of bad weather and a bad cough have kept me indoors for far too long. It was a relief when both cleared at last and I was able to put on my walking boots again. We decided to revisit Loweswater, as we’ve not been here for 6 months or so
This is one of our favourite local walks which, in the space of 6 miles, manages to cram in a huge variety of scenery including farmland, ancient woodland, a lake, a tarn, open moorland and a lonely valley. Along the way there are wonderful views over the Solway Plain looking north (including Scotland in clear weather) and to the high lakeland fells looking south
We parked as usual at Maggie’s Bridge where there is space for 8-10 cars. Instead of heading directly to Loweswater we followed the track to High Nook Farm, where Alfred Wainwright used to stay when he was researching his Guide to the Western Fells. After passing through the farmyard we carried on to the head of the valley before joining the wonderful terrace path above Holme Wood, which is an ancient coffin road from Loweswater to St Bees. The views from here are superb
The path contours around the sides of Carling Knott and Burnbank Fell and reaches a height of over 1,000 feet – higher than one or two lakeland fells. However the climbing is so gentle that it’s hardly noticed. We carried on towards Fangs Brow, on the very edge of the Lake District, before turning back at Iredale Place and following the path past Jenkinson Place and Hudson Place. We then walked back through Holme Wood, and along the shore of Loweswater, passing by the bothy as we did so
The last section was an easy stroll along the track between Watergate Farm and Maggie’s Bridge. We’ve followed this route on numerous occasions at every time of the year and never tire of it
For other walks here, visit my Find Walks page and enter the name in the ‘Search site’ box
Postscript: since publishing this walk, I’ve been contacted by Alan Cleaver, author of The Corpse Roads of Cumbria. His research suggests that the terrace path was only cut in the 1964, and the local vicar in 1929 said that the tradition was that the corpse road went beside the lake through Holme Wood. This makes sense, as the terrace path involves an ascent of almost 1,000 feet. Alan thinks that the National Trust promoted it as a corpse road in the 1970’s, and the error had been repeated ever since
Click on the icon below for the route map (subscribers to OS Maps can view detailed maps of the route, visualise it in aerial 3D, and download the GPX file. Non-subscribers will see a base map)
Scroll down – or click on any photo to enlarge it and you can then view as a slideshow
The start of the walk as we leave the car park at Maggie's Bridge - our route will take us above Holme Wood in the background
We follow the track to High Nook Farm
Having passed through the farmyard, we pause to look back over sweet Lorton Vale. Low Fell is on the left
Highnook Beck, which runs into a tarn unseen from here. We'll turn sharp right at the head of the valley
Looking back along Highnook Beck to Low Fell
We cross the bridge over the beck and turn right
Whiteside and Grasmoor on the far side of Lorton Vale
Looking back along the old coffin road to Black Crag
We reach the edge of Holme Wood and look across to Grasmoor, Mellbreak and Crummock Water
Loweswater fells as we walk above Holme Wood
Looking back along the old coffin road as it contours around the lower slopes of Carling Knott
Wind battered trees at the edge of Holme Wood...
Loweswater below
Looking back to Grasmoor with a dusting of snow on its top
The head of Loweswater below (the lake is unusual in that in drains towards the lakeland fells and not away from them as would normally be expected)
The foot of Loweswater, which drains into Crummock Water beyond
Views back along the coffin road...
Low Fell, Whiteside and Grasmoor
On the fringes of the Lake District now as we head towards Fangs Brow. Scotland and the Solway Firth are in the far distance
Views back into lakeland...
We descend through the fields to begin the return leg of the walk
We follow the path above Iredale Place, with Loweswater beyond
Jenkinson Place, and Darling Fell in the background
Descending towards Loweswater...
We enter Holme Wood, managed by the National Trust
There is an alternative path which hugs the lakeshore, but we take the direct route through the wood
The bothy, which is available to rent from the National Trust
Loweswater
Having left Holme Wood, we follow this track, which leads directly back to Maggie's Bridge and the end of a walk which always pleases
We drive to nearby Loweswater village, where there's a pot of Gold at the end of the rainbow....
