Caldbeck walk - Howk Bobbin Mill - Northen Lake District walks

Route: Caldbeck

Area: Northern Lake District

Date of walk: 29th June 2023

Walkers: Andrew and Gilly

Distance: 2.6 miles

Ascent: 250 feet

Weather: Sunny

Caldbeck is an unspoilt traditional fell village and its remote location in the far north of the Lake District ensures its tranquillity. The area is unfrequented and for anyone wishing to get away from the madding crowds it’s an ideal centre for walkers who prefer solitude. A glance at the Ordnance Survey map reveals a network of public footpaths radiating out of the village in all directions and giving numerous opportunities for circular walks, both long and short. At the start of today’s walk we parked in the free village car park. We hadn’t decided on the exact route as the length of the walk would depend on my new knee, still recovering from the operation in February. The plan was to walk beside Whelpo Beck to Howk, home to an old bobbin mill, and we’d improvise from there

The path to Howk may be found at the end of the car park, but before setting off we did a quick circular detour around Caldbeck, visiting St Kentigern’s Church (or St Mungo’s Church) along the way. The churchyard is the resting place of Mary Harrison, (the Beauty of Buttermere), and John Peel the famous huntsman. On arriving back at the car park we set off along the easy path to Howk which runs along the north bank of Whelpo Beck. We soon arrived at the preserved ruins of the old Bobbin Mill, situated within a natural limestone gorge.These are the remains of a 19th century bobbin mill, built to help meet the huge demand from Lancashire’s textile industry, which once boasted the largest overshot wheel in the country, measuring 3ft wide and with a 42ft diameter. The mill began production in 1857 and made bobbins for the cotton industry. Wood for the bobbins came from areas of ancient coppiced woodland in the valley and surrounding area

We continued beside the beck, passing by several waterfalls along the way and ignoring a couple of opportunities to shorten the walk. After reaching a bridge leading to Beckstones we left the beck and turned right uphill, enjoying some lovely views back to the Caldbeck fells as we gained height. We then turned right again to begin the gentle descent back into Caldbeck through a succession of fields and meadows. On arriving back in the village we walked around the old duck pond and then retraced our steps back to the start. We didn’t see any other walkers along the way, and resolved to return here

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The start of the walk from the free cark in Caldbeck. Before setting off to Howk we take a short detour to visit the village church

St Kentigern's Church or St Mungo's Church Caldbeck

St Kentigern's Church also known as St Mungo's Church

We cross a bridge over Whelpo Beck in order to reach the church grounds

The churchyard is the resting place of Mary Harrison, (the Beauty of Buttermere), and John Peel the famous huntsman

We head back to the car park, passing by the village pond along the way

At the far end of the car park we follow the sign 'Footpath to Howk'. The land appears to be private, but isn't...

We follow an easy path through woodland, with Whelpo Beck on our left

We soon arrive at the ruins of Howk Bobbin Mill, where an information board tells its history

Anyone seeking a short walk can return at this point, either going back the same way, or joining a path near the mill which provides a circular return. We carry on beside Whelpo Beck

We pass by a waterfall, one of several in the limestone gorge which is home to Whelpo Beck

We emerge from woodland into open countryside...

Navigation is a simple matter of following the course of Whelpo Beck

Looking back along our path

We ford a small spring which feeds into the beck

The walk can be extended by continuing to Brownrigg, but we decide to start the return leg, and can see our route which leads uphill beside the dry stone wall