Route: Circuit of Buttermere
Area: Western Lake District
Date of walk: 2nd February 2019
Walkers: Andrew, Gilly, Phil and Denise
Distance: 6.4 miles
Ascent: 500 feet
Weather: Overcast at first but soon cleared to sun and blue skies
We parked as usual in the National Trust car park at Long How, and walked through Buttermere village, passing the Fish Inn and following the path to the foot of the lake. On the last occasion I was here, exactly four months ago, there was a temporary footbridge in place over Buttermere Dubs, as the old stone bridge is currently being rebuilt. To our surprise, the temporary bridge has been removed, and a sign advised us to follow a diversion to Scale Bridge. This meant retracing our steps back to the edge of the village. It would have been helpful if a diversion had been erected earlier, at the start of the path to Scale Bridge
It’s hard to grumble when walking in such beautiful surroundings and this minor inconvenience was soon forgotten as we reached the far shore of Buttermere and began the walk to its head. As if to compensate us for our troubles, the clouds quickly lifted and we enjoyed some glorious weather for the remainder of the walk
After crossing Peggy’s Bridge at the head of the lake and passing by Gatesgarth Farm we started the return leg along the other shore. We followed the sometimes rocky path back into Buttermere village, passing through the short tunnel in the rocks near Hassness along the way. Before returning to the car park we made a brief detour to the small church of St James to revisit the memorial tablet in honour of Alfred Wainwright, looking towards his favourite fell, Haystacks
This is one of the very best low level walks in the Lake District, one which appears over 20 times on these pages, and we were lucky to have enjoyed it in such good conditions. For anyone following this walk, note that the Maps Page shows the route which we took, but omitting the ‘there and back’ section to the missing bridge. When the bridge is finally restored, hopefully later this year, the route will be as shown here and will be 1 mile shorter than today’s walk
For other walks here, visit my Find Walks page and enter the name in the ‘Search site’ box
Click on the icon below for the route map (subscribers to OS Maps can view detailed maps of the route, visualise it in aerial 3D, and download the GPX file. Non-subscribers will see a base map)
Scroll down – or click on any photo to enlarge it and you can then view as a slideshow
More sheep than cars in the National Trust car park at Long How, just outside Buttermere village
Cragg House Farm, overlooked by High Stile
We pass to the left of the Fish Inn
We arrive at the foot of Buttermere
Buttermere Dubs, where we're surprised to find that the temporary bridge has been removed, so we have to retrace our steps
Heading for Scale Bridge, the nearest alternative crossing
Looking back to Buttermere village
Scale Bridge
After walking beside Buttermere Dubs we arrive back at the foot of Buttermere, just a few yards away from where we'd been 20 minutes ago - but in better weather
Looking across to Whiteless Pike and High Snockrigg
Fleetwith Pike, which will prove to be one of the scenic highlights of the walk
We follow the easy path through Burtness Wood
Hassness and Fleetwith Pike
Hassness again at the foot of Robinson
A view back along the lake
Fleetwith Pike dominates the scene as we continue towards the head of Buttermere
We pass by Hassness
Fleetwith Pike and Warnscale Bottom
The bothy at the head of Buttermere
Highland cattle, which are often seen grazing around here
Fleetwith Pike and the bothy...
A view back along the path, with Mellbreak in the distance
We arrive at the head of Buttermere
Fleetwith Pike and Green Crag
Haystacks is to the right but the sun is directly behind, so I'm unable to record it
Warnscale Beck from Peggy's Bridge
A view towards Buttermere from Peggy's Bridge
Looking back to High Crag as we follow the path across the head of the lake
Approaching Gatesgarth Farm, at which point we'll start the return leg along the other shore
Fleetwith Edge and Fleetwith Pike
Looking along Gatesgarthdale Beck towards the Honister Pass, which is closed to cars today on account of the snow
The High Stile Range - High Crag, High Stile and Red Pike
We walk along the Buttermere road for a short distance, no traffic thanks to the closure of the Honister Pass
Looking across Buttermere, where we can see our earlier path running above the lake
Our route will take us around the promontory by Hassness...
Fleetwith Pike and the head of Buttermere
A couple of canoeists paddle by below High Stile
Mellbreak in the distance
Looking back to the canoeists
We enter the tunnel, which was carved out in the 19th century on behalf of a Manchester mill owner
A last look back to Fleetwith Pike
We continue along the lakeshore path
Pike Rigg
We arrive back in Buttermere village and make a short diversion to St James' Church
Inside the church, the memorial tablet in memory of Alfred Wainwright, looking out to his favourite fell - Haystacks
The view of Haystacks from the small garden in front of the church window
A few minutes later, and a perfect end to a perfect morning in the famous Kirkstile Inn
