Route: Bute Inlet grizzly bear watching
Area: British Columbia, Canada
Date of walk: 29th September 2024
Walkers: Andrew, Gilly, James and Anna
Distance: n/a
Ascent: n/a
Weather: sunny
Today’s walk didn’t involve much walking, but it’s worth recording here as we all had one of the most memorable wildlife experiences of our lives. September is peak time for the ‘salmon run’. Pacific salmon start their lives in freshwater rivers, later migrating to the ocean where they grow and mature for several years. Eventually, they return to the same river they originated from to reproduce, completing their life cycle before passing away. The return of salmon to the rivers of British Columbia is an important event not only for the salmon, but also for other wildlife. Salmon are a vital source of food for bears, eagles, wolves and many other animals
Salmon are also part of the spiritual and cultural identity of many First Nations and with all this in mind I booked a tour with Homalco Wildlife and Cultural Tours a few days ago. Homalco First Nation, traditionally known as the ‘people of fast running waters’, have been living on the Bute Inlet since time immemorial and their intimate knowledge of the land makes them perfect guides for wildlife tours of their territory. It was good too to be supporting an enterprise owned by indigenous people which is dedicated to preserving this environment
We made a very early start as it was a two hour drive from our base in Chemainus to Campbell River on Vancouver Island. The tour started here at 7.30am with another two hour journey, on board a small boat to Bute Inlet. The boat trip alone was worth the price of our tickets – within minutes we had good sightings of a pair of humpback whales. The journey took us through increasingly dramatic landscape along the Orford River to the head of Bute Inlet, which is on the mainland of Canada. As we disembarked we were greeted by two marvels – our friendly and informative guide Chyanne of the Homalco First Nations and the sight of a pair of grizzly bears in the distance at the mouth of the inlet
We then set off on a minibus adventure along tracks through ancient forests, stopping at several viewing platforms set in beautiful surroundings along the Teaquahan River. From here we had some incredible sightings of grizzly bears, bald eagles and the reason for their presence – wild salmon (chum species) swimming in the crystal clear river water
At lunchtime we returned to the start and set off on the boat back to Vancouver Island. Along the way there were more spectacular sightings of humpback whales, sea lions, bald eagles and seals. It had been a long day, but one which we’ll never forget
The map link below shows the location of Bute Inlet
Scroll down – or click on any photo to enlarge it and you can then view as a slideshow
Within minutes of setting off on the two hour boat ride from Chemainus to Bute Inlet, the captain stopped the boat, having spotted the tell tale sign of a blow - a cloud of air and vapour exhaled from the blowhole of a humpback whale, in this case a pair of whales
A great start to the day, but there would be even better sightings to come as we sailed along Bute Inlet
The pristine surroundings of Orford Bay, Bute Inlet
We disembark from the small boat at Orford Bay
Grizzly bear, one of a pair which we could see in the distance from the pier. After a formal greeting by Chyanne and her colleague James, we were driven in a minibus to various locations...
Thanks to their longstanding and intimate connection with this place, our guides knew where to take us for the best chance of seeing bears, though a sighting is never guaranteed as these are wild animals in their natural surroundings
Grizzly bear in search of salmon, which are abundant during the salmon run at this time of year
A bald eagle hoping for some leftovers
A young bald eagle flies in
It was hard to know what to focus on - in this case the grizzly bear won the day
The bear wanders along the river bank (we are perfectly safe in a raised hide with a locked door at the foot of the stairs)
The bear is some distance away - these photos were taken with a 400mm lens and have been cropped
Bald eagle
We stopped at various viewpoints in search of bears, sometimes with no sightings, but the landscape around the river was awesome and worth the visit in its own right...
Brown Dipper
The reason for the presence of the bears and eagles - Chum salmon. one of the largest species of Pacific salmon
From another hide, a grizzly bear makes its way along the riverbank...
...and is joined by a mate
I hardly know where to point the camera, as a bald eagle flew overhead seconds later - my excuse for the bird being out of focus
A final view along the Teaquahan River at the end of a fantastic tour, but there was more to come...
We say farewell and thanks to Chyanne for guiding us around Orford Bay, and set off back to Vancouver Island
On the way back along Bute Inlet the boat slowed down, as there were numerous sea lions awimming around
This one looks panic stricken...
We thought at first that this was a killer whale catching a sea lion, but thanks to Homalco Tours for confirming that the sighting is in fact a sea lion on its side with its front flipper in the air, common behaviour for sea lions, as they use the rays of the sun to heat their bodies
Bald eagle with salmon
A pair of sea lions
Grey seals...
Cormorants, and to cap off an incredible day of wildlife watching...
...a pair of Humpback whales (credit to son James for these photos)
With a final blow the whale dives down into Bute Inlet and we carry on back to port
We arrive back at Campbell river on Vancouver Island
Yet more wildlife sightings, a pair of harbour seals as we disembark
Basking in the late afternoon sun
Thanks to Homalco Tours for a truly wonderful day
