Route: Bagno Vignoni
Area: Italy, Tuscany
Date of walk: 6th October 2019
Walkers: Andrew and Gilly
Distance: 7.3 miles
Ascent: 1,400 feet
Weather: Sunshine and blue skies
We started today’s walk in the same place as we finished yesterday’s – the historic old spa village of Bagno Vignoni in the Crete and Val d’Orcia region of Tuscany
This village has a unique attraction – in traditional Italian towns and villages there is a main square in the centre. In Bagno Vignoni there is a pool 49 metres long and 29 wide, from the bottom of which bubble up a number of hot springs. The therapeutic qualities of the waters became renowned and attracted numerous pilgrims travelling the Via Francigena on their way to Rome, one of the main destinations for the Christian pilgrimages. It’s not possible to enter the central pool, but it is possible to enjoy a free warm bath in the springs at the adjacent Parco dei Mulini
After another short wander around we left the village via a lane at the north west corner of the pool. Much of the route follows the Ripa d’Orcia circuit which is well waymarked, and navigation is an easy affair. We descended to the River Orcia, taking a small detour to visit its banks, before starting the long climb up to the ridge which is the highlight of this walk
The ascent was in truth a rather tedious affair, being entirely through shrubby woodland with no views. There was however the merit of being shaded from the hot midday sun. Eventually we arrived at a war memorial signalling the end of the climb and the start of a fantastic panoramic ridge walk, with huge views in all directions. Near the end of the ridge we made a short diversion to the fortified hamlet of Vignoni Alto, where a massive stone tower dominates a group of restored houses
From here we retraced our steps back to the main track and made the easy descent into Bagno Vignoni to complete a superb circuit
Click on the icon below for the route map
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Before the start of the walk, I made my third successive dawn visit to Podere Belvedere. Perseverance was rewarded with this magical misty scene
The sun gradually rises behind the farmstead...
A wonderful start to the day
Later that morning, the start of the walk from the village of Bagno Vignoni and its central natural spa pool...
Looking up to Rocca d'Orcia, which we'll visit after the walk. I wish I could say it was mist drifting across, but it's bonfire smoke
We descend through typical Mediterranean woodland towards the River Orcia...
We detour for a few yards to visit the bank of the River Orcia, with a derelict suspension bridge hanging forlornly above it
The start of a long but easy climb from the riverbed to the ridge which is the highlight of the walk. There are no views along this section
We emerge at a war memorial encircled by cypress trees
In the distance we can just see the fortified tower of Vignoni Alto, which we'll visit near the end of the walk
Looking back along vineyards towards Rocca d'Orcia
We pass by a small shrine on the ridge
Looking towards Montalcino in the distance
Alto Vignoni again
We continue along the white gravel road, known as strada bianca
Monte Amiata in the distance
We arrive at the ancient hamlet of Vignoni Alto, consisting of a massive tower and a few restored houses
We stroll through the hamlet...
View of Rocca d'Orcia from Alto Vignoni
We return to the main path and descend towards Bagno Vignoni, with wonderful views ahead...
Bagno Vignoni, and the end of a superb walk, is just around the corner
We then drive over to nearby Rocca d'Orcia, here looking back to Alto Vignoni top left and Bagno Vignoni bottom right
We walk up through the streets of the old village...
After climbing a series of staircases we arrive at the top of the fortress Rocca di Tentennano, which we'd seen during the course of our walk
There are some huge views from here, some of the most extensive in Tuscany...
Looking over the village and the ruined fortress of Castiglione d'Orcia
Castiglione d'Orcia again...
Looking towards Alto Vignoni
Val d'Orcia in all its glory
On the way back I stopped the car to take a couple of roadside photos of Poggio Covili...
...and lastly the iconic and photogenic Chapel Vitaleta
