Route: Arco de São Jorge to Boa Ventura
Area: Madeira
Date of walk: 31st January 2025
Walkers: Andrew and Gilly
Distance: 2.5 miles
Ascent: 1,500 feet
Weather: Sunny and warm
For the second day running our intended walk was thwarted by unforeseen circumstances. Our plan had been to walk from Santana and descend an ancient pathway down the cliffs to the sea, catching the small Rocha do Navio cable car back up to the top. Two problems prevented this: the pathway was closed due to erosion and the cable car (which seems to open and close when it pleases) wasn’t operating. As happened yesterday this turned out for the best as our Plan B proved to be a great success
We drove a little further along the north coast of Madeira and parked in one of several roadside spaces next to the Restaurante O Arco in Arco de São Jorge. It wasn’t clear if these belonged to the restaurant so we asked for permission which was readily given. We joined a cobbled trail to the left of the restaurant. The path, known as Caminho da Entrosa, is cut into the cliffs and was once the only access between Arco de São Jorge and our destination, Boa Ventura
The path was slightly eroded in parts and there were big drops to the sea on our right, sometimes protected by rickety fencing and sometimes not. It wasn’t a dangerous path, but I have to confess to suffering a few mild palpitations. The views along the cliffs and out to sea were superlative. Eventually the path began to descend, zigzagging down the almost vertical cliff, carved into the rock face. As we approached sea level we arrived at an old stone barn where we made a short “there and back” diversion to admire a wonderful coastal view from a small grassy headland
Returning to the route we crossed a stone bridge and followed the cobbled path uphill to São Cristóvão. The view from Restaurante São Cristóvão is superb and we savoured it for a while (along with an ice cold beer) before resuming our walk. The final section to Boa Ventura is a means to an end and involves a 20 minute walk up the road. On arriving at Boa Ventura we sought out the bus stop which is supposed to be near the village church. There was no sign of a bus stop so we sought advice from the friendly locals who pointed us to the right place. We’d expected a 45 minute wait, but when a bus suddenly appeared we hailed it down and the driver confirmed he would take us back to Arco de São Jorge for 3 euros – a bargain. We then noticed that all the other passengers were about 10 years old and it dawned on us that we were on the school bus, which proceeded to divert to several local villages in order to drop off the schoolchildren. After an enjoyable – and quite noisy – journey we were dropped off next to our car – a great end to a great walk
Click on the icon below for the route map
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It's worth sharing a few photos of Santana where we had to abandon our planned walk
These typical thatched cottages are part of the heritage of Madeira...
Newly planted potatoes in one of the many smallholdings as we strolled through the village
The start of our intended walk. Problem No. 1 - path closed
Problem No. 2 - cable car (our route back) not operating
Thus thwarted, we head back into Santana and plan another walk
The start of our walk from the Restaurante O Arco in Arco de São Jorge
We follow an old cobbled path above the sea...
Looking back along the rugged coastline
Ilhéu Preto below
A reminder that the path is below steep cliffs
We're grateful for protective fencing along the narrower sections
Ilhéu Preto below
The building with the red roof is Restaurante São Cristóvão, where we'll enjoy refreshments later on
The path starts to descend steeply, with many twists and turns along the way...
The path briefly turns away from the ocean...
...before turning back again
We continue to descend and will climb back up the winding path below
Approaching the ocean...
Looking back to Ilhéu Vermelho
We cross an old stone bridge and begin the climb up to São Cristóvão
Looking back up to the path we’d followed earlier
Ilhéu Vermelho again
Refreshments at Restaurante São Cristóvão
View from Restaurante São Cristóvão
Looking back up to our path, which wasn't as intimidating as the photo suggests
We continue to our destination, Boa Ventura
A 20 minute section along the road, but a small price to pay
We arrive at Boa Ventura
We climb the steps to look for a bus stop. There are none and it's best to ask the locals where to wait. We somehow ended up on a school bus, all part of the adventure
