Route: Levada do Caniçal
Area: Madeira
Date of walk: 1st February 2025
Walkers: Andrew and Gilly
Distance: 3.6 miles
Ascent: 100 feet
Weather: Mostly cloudy with some sunny spells and a couple of light showers
On the final day of our walking holiday in Madeira we decided on another levada walk. The levada system on the island is a boon to walkers, and opens up numerous opportunities to pass through areas which would otherwise be completely inaccessible. The only downside is that the mountainous nature of the terrain means that circular walks are almost impossible to plan and it’s necessary to find a way back to the start. In today’s case our destination was the town of Caniçal, where we would have a choice of bus of taxi
We parked in a layby next to a quarry near the entrance to the Túnel do Caniçal. This wasn’t a particularly scenic start to the walk as we followed a concrete track for a short distance before locating our walking companion, the eastern section of the Levada do Caniçal. The scenery quickly improved as we set off along the narrow path beside the levada, which has drops on the right, but safety fencing is provided where needed so there are no dangers. Views of the sea opened up, as well as the São Lourenço peninsula where we enjoyed a wonderful walk earlier in the week
As is always the case with levada walks, the path weaved its way in and out of gullies, descending imperceptibly all the time. We passed through woodland and terraced agricultural areas, before finally arriving at a wide dirt track which became a tarred road further down. We descended into the town of Caniçal, just missing the No. 113 bus, so caught a taxi back to the start of the walk (10 euros including a generous tip as we had an enjoyable chat with local driver, who had learned to drive in Jersey while living there as a potato picker)
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The start of the walk as we follow a concrete track by a quarry, but only for a short distance
We locate the Levada do Caniçal and set off for Caniçal following various twists and turns as the levada weaves in and out of gullies
Caniçal below, though it will take us a while to get there thanks to the circuitous nature of the route
Caniçal again, and beyond it lies the São Lourenço peninsula, the most easterly tip of Madeira, where we'd walked on our second day here
Looking along the Levada do Caniçal, mid picture
A view down to our destination, Caniçal. Agriculture and fishing are the main industries
The São Lourenço peninsula stretches out beyond Caniçal
Looking back
The island of Porto Santo in the distance
A short section along a track beside the levada
We head into another green valley...
...before crossing a bridge near a smallholding at the head of a gully
Heading towards Caniçal
Looking across to our earlier path cut into the hillside
Last photo of the Levada do Caniçal before we leave it to join a wide dirt track...
We follow the track down towards Caniçal
Looking along the jagged coastline
Caniçal below
We wander down to a small stony beach
Caniçal harbour
The Church of Sao Sebastiao - a bus stop and taxi stand are nearby. Having just missed the bus, we took a taxi back to the start of an enjoyable walk
